Hello from Chicago - The Field Museum and Pompeii - "Stories from an Eruption"

October 24, 2005

Hello from Chicago - The Field Museum and Pompeii - "Stories from an Eruption"

Yesterday I got up early again and typed up my travel reports on the free computer at the Arlington House. Then my friend Linda and I made our way to one of our favourite Chicago hangouts for breakfast: the "Bourgeois Pig Cafe" is located close to the intersection of Fullerton and Halsted/Lincoln and is a 2 story cozy cafe with a small sitting area and patio downstairs, and a beautiful converted living room and balcony upstairs. I had one of my favourite breakfast indulgences: a deluxe Belgian waffle with strawberries, whipped cream, pecans and brown sugar, just a sinful treat on a hungry stomach. Linda had a huge and delicious looking foccaccia sandwich with ham and melted cheese and raved about it as well.

The Bourgeois Pig CafeAppropriately strengthened we started our explorations. We wanted to check out a Polish area called Wickertown and took the Fullerton bus west to Damen and south to North Street. We walked around a pleasant neighbourhood with lots of small stores, funky boutiques and chic little restaurants. The weather was really clammy and cold though, so we decided to continue our explorations indoors and head to a museum. On we hopped onto the el-train and headed downtown to the Chicago Cultural Center, the main informational contact point for tourists. One of the local volunteers recommended that we go to the Field Museum and see the Pompeii exhibit.

The Field Museum was originally incorporated in 1893 and was renamed the Field Museum of Natural History, to honour the Museum's first benefactor, Marshall Field. In 1921 the Museum moved from its original location in Jackson Park to its present site on Chicago Park District property near downtown where it is part of a lakefront Museum Campus that includes the John G. Shedd Aquarium and the Adler Planetarium. These three institutions are regarded as among the finest of their kind in the world and together attract more visits annually than any comparable site in Chicago.

The Field Museum is currently hosting a special exhibition: "Pompeii - Stories from an Eruption" and we decided to visit this special exhibition. The Pompeii exhibit features jewellery, earthenware, small tools, everyday objects, even a bathtub that were excavated from Herculaneum and Pompeii. Room-size frescoes and mosaics bring to life the artistic talent of these ancient Roman towns. A little eerie were the plaster casts of victims that had been buried in volcanic ash and when the bodies disintegrated, they left behind a cavity in the ash that was filled with plaster, providing a perfect cast of the victim. We saw plaster casts of a young girl, a young man, two women huddled against each other, even a little dog with its feet up in the air. The plaster casts really gave you an idea of the instantaneous nature of this catastrophe.

Informational videos and a 3-D animated feature provided a visual representation of some of the Roman villas and public areas, giving us a good example of what Pompeii and Herculaneum must have looked like before the volcanic eruption. The exhibition really showed what a catastrophic event this volcanic eruption must have been and how people were caught completely off-guard, unable to flee. In essence, most of the victims choked almost instantly on the burning clouds of pyroclastic ash that rained down on them as they were trying to escape or hiding away in the cascades by the sea.

The show also demonstrated that today the area around Vesuvius is extremely densely populated and a timeline indicated that the amount of volcanic activity has noticeably increased over the last 300 years. Today the area around Naples is one of the most closely monitored areas on the planet where the African Plate is subducting under the Eurasian Plate. More seismic and volcanic activity is definitely in store for this geologically unstable region.

After our visit to the Field Museum we walked across Grant Park to Michigan Avenue since we needed to have one more tasty lunch before we had to grab our luggage and start our respective journeys home. We took the bus up Michigan Avenue, and as we unfolded our CTA transit map to figure out what combination of buses we had to take, the couple behind us and a young lady in front of us volunteered their help in navigating us around their city. With their input we chose the most appropriate route and we both noted that we were surprised at this unsolicited but most welcome gesture of assistance.

Once back in the Lincoln Park Area, we headed back to our favourite place, the "Austrian Bakery" on Clark north of Fullerton, which offers delicious samples of the type of food that both Linda and I grew up with, dishes that are usually hard to come by in North America. We both enjoyed a typical Austrian dish: "Fritattensuppe", a clear beef broth with pancake strips, and I had a Wiener Schnitzel with home-fried potatoes. It doesn't get much more Austrian than that and we both purchased a few baked goods before we headed off. Linda took the train back to her town in Indiana, while I made my way through the rain to O'Hare Airport where I was randomly selected for a thorough frisking, and just a couple of hours later I touched down safely on home turf in Toronto.

As always, Chicago has been a beautiful getaway and we both had a phenomenal time. Even the cool and clammy weather wasn't able to stop us....

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Hello from Chicago - Chinatown and Second City

Chicago, Arlington House, Sunday October 23,2005, 6:30 am

Hello from Chicago - Chinatown and Second City

After thoroughly exploring the Pullman Historic District, we decided to check out Chinatown, one of the many ethnic neighbourhoods that Chicago has to offer. The weather had turned from cool and grey with the occasional peek of sunshine to dark, rainy and cold, so rather than walking around we decided to have an early dinner at a Chinatown restaurant called the Lobster King.

Both my friend Linda and I had ordered vegetarian dishes, but after taking our order the waiter returned and informed us that he was going to charge us $2 extra for each dish since vegetables are much more expensive during the winter months. I decided to have a look at their takeout menu and saw that the same low price was listed on the takeout menu as on the main menu. As a result I put forward an argument that if both the dine-in and the take-out menu are stating the same low price for both dishes, I would not agree with being charged an extra $2 for each dish based on a verbal announcement. Either change the menu to include the higher price or charge the prices that are shown on both menus. I am not usually a difficult, picky guest in any hospitality establishment, but to try to charge $2 more for a dish that is listed at a lower price on both menus did not seem a proper business practice to me.

The waiter / manager finally agreed to charge us the prices listed on the menu, and the food was indeed delicious. After exploring the Chicago Cultural Center and the Historic Pullman District we had gotten quite hungry and we really enjoyed our early dinner.

After reviving ourselves we hopped on the subway because we wanted to check out Little Italy. So we got on the Blue Line and were told to exit at the UIC (University of Illinois) Campus and walk southwards. By that time it was raining and it was a rather inhospitable clammy day. We actually never ended up finding Little Italy, but walked around for about 40 minutes in the rain and after this exercise of futility we decided to pursue our evening plans: to attend a live performance at Second City, Chicago's famous comedy venue.

So we took the subway back downtown to Jackson and we waited for the Purple Line until we realized that this line only runs during rush hour on weekdays. So we inquired which line we had to take and we found out that the Brown Line (to Kimball) would take us to Second City. At that point we realized that we had also been waiting on the wrong side of the platform. I guess in the Loop el-trains only run in one direction and we had already been wondering why we had seen 3 brown line trains go by on the other side of the platform, but none of them had arrived on our side.

I'd say we spent a good 45 minutes waiting on the wrong side of the platform until we finally had enough and went downstairs to ask a CTA employee who directed us onto the correct platform. In the rainy clammy weather this wasn't the most exciting part of our trip, but we managed to entertain ourselves with lots of insider jokes in our original Austrian dialects.

Finally we caught a brown line train and made our way up to North Wells Street, into the Old Town Neighbourhood, home of the Second City Comedy Club. Since 1959 Second City has established itself as a Chicago landmark and a national treasure. This theatre has launched the careers of such comic geniuses as John Belushi, Mike Myers, Bill Murray, Gilda Radner, and others more. It offers nightly comedy shows, as well as a variety of other programs and services.

The theatre has two main stages, both of which were sold out yesterday, so we headed up onto the 4th floor of the building which houses Donny's Skybox Studio Theatre which is affiliated with Second City. This theatre features an eclectic mix of student productions as well as other alternative shows and at $10.00 per person, the tickets were a steal.

The Outreach & Diversity Program produces two to three original shows each year that are performed at Second City’s studio theatre, Donny’s Skybox, on the fourth floor of Piper’s Alley. At least one of these productions is an original revue written and performed by the Outreach & Diversity ensemble, a group of African American, Latino or Asian actors cast through annual auditions.

We bought tickets for the 9 pm show: "Six Degrees of Reparation", a hip comedy revue featuring improv, original material and Second City classic scenes with an urban multicultural twist which was put on by 6 young comedians which included 5 black and 1 oriental performers.

The show offered a lot of physical comedy and a variety of different sketches. One of the funniest ones was a sketch entitled "Osama bin Laden could be anywhere", where one of the female comedians donned a big black beard and kept popping up in different everyday situations. The "superior Asian girl" sketch played with A, B, C (Asian, Black, Caucasian) stereotypes and demonstrated how we all have pre-conceived notions of one another. In the "Black Black Awards" sketch the troupe made fun of famous celebrities such as Whitney Houston, Maya Angelou and even Martha Stewart.

One of the most poignant sketches was set in an imaginary Office Depot store, where the black and Asian store employees were giving very shoddy and unfriendly service to a variety of customers. At the end, the young black shopkeeper explained that with a wage of $6.50 an hour, after all her costs (food, rent, bus passes, doing her nails, etc.), she was $189 in the hole, and at that price a smile would not be included in the service.

We both enjoyed the live performance of these gifted comedians immensely as we both love live theatre and comedy performances. As far as culture is concerned, Chicago has something to offer to everyone.

Well, today is our last day here in Chicago, and the weather is forecast to be quite cold with a 60% chance of rain. Fortunately Chicago has many indoor venues to choose from so I am sure we won't get bored.

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Hello from Chicago - A Visit to the Pullman Historic District

Chicago, Arlington House, Sunday, October 23, 2005, 6:25 am

Hello from Chicago - A Visit to the Pullman Historic District

After being appropriately prepped as a result of our visit to the Chicago Cultural Center we decided to head off yesterday to visit the Pullman Historic District, a planned industrial and residential community dating back to the 1880s, on Chicago's South Side.

In order to get there we took the red line all the way to the end and then connected onto the 111 bus. What was very interesting to note was that the population on Chicago's south side is predominantly black, as much of the black population from the US South had migrated northwards after the 2nd World War. Actually Chicago was known as one of the most racially segregated cities, and today, with the demolition of many of the bleak urban housing projects, the city is attempting to create more integration between its black and white population.

The Pullman Historic District is the manifestation of a very interesting social experiment: It was built between 1880 and 1884 as a planned model industrial town by George M. Pullman for the Pullman Palace Car Company. George Pullman (1831 to 1897) arrived on the scene with a design for the Pullman sleeping carriage which he originally developed to carry the dead body of Abraham Lincoln to his funeral. As a result the Pullman Sleeping Car Company was established and a whole town was built around the business and named after its originator.

We went to the Visitor Center and saw an 18-minute movie that described George Pullman and his ambitious plans for his development of a model community, a total environment, that he intended to be superior to that available to the working class elsewhere. By so doing, he hoped to avoid strikes, attract the most skilled workers and attain greater productivity as a result of the better health and spirit of his employees.

To achieve his vision, George Pullman hired Solon S. Beaman, landscape architect Nathan F. Barrett and civil engineer, Benzette Williams. The town was constructed by Pullman employees, using local red clay from Lake Calumet and component parts that were produced in the Pullman factory. This project is one of the first examples of industrial technology and mass production in large-scale housing. The town was a complete planned community and included schools, a library and hotel all run by the company.

Pullman's large Arcade building (now demolished and the present location of the Visitor Center) featured a restaurant, a bank, a library, a post office, a theater, and numerous shops. It was a forerunner of the modern shopping center. The town was completely self-contained. Pullman residents enjoyed the manmade Lake Vista and plenty of parks and promenades, features typically missing from Chicago's working-class neighbourhoods.

The town of Pullman was a model of financial efficiency. Pullman demanded that the company return an 8-percent profit and the town return a 6-percent profit. A huge engine pumped sewage from the town to a nearby Pullman-owned farm, where it was used as fertilizer for produce that would be sold back in the town.

George Pullman maintained ultimate control over the town, even restricting workers' access to alcohol, as the Hotel Florence only sold alcohol to out-of-town visitors. Resentment towards this paternalistic despot started to build. Misfortune struck with the decline of the Pullman car's success which forced George to slash wages. Workers responded with a strike, fuelled by Pullman's failure to reduce grocery costs and rent, but George simply fired them. The situation deteriorated as railway workers refused to handle Pullman cars and President Cleveland had to intervene, sending federal troops to the scene. The workers were forced to sign documentation declaring that they wouldn't join a union.

Although the strike collapsed, George Pullman's model for handling the "labour problem" had failed. Pullman had prided himself on his paternalistic approach with his workers, and he could not see how his heavy-handed methods had resulted in this worker rebellion. Criticized and scorned, Pullman died a bitter man in 1897.

In 1898, the Illinois Supreme Court ordered the Pullman Company to sell the non-industrial land in the neighborhood to its inhabitants, determining that the Pullman Palace Car Company did not have the proper authority to provide nonmanufacturing services such as renting property. Finally, residents could buy their homes.

Robert T. Lincoln, the son of President Lincoln, became head of the company after Pullman's death and simplified its name to the Pullman Company. The Pullman Company continued to produce its famous cars at 111th Street and Cottage Grove Avenue. But with the explosion of automobile ownership, rail passenger traffic went into rapid decline. In 1957, Pullman Incorporated closed its plant in the neighborhood.

Only three years later, the city of Chicago included Pullman on a list of "blighted and deteriorating areas" that required clearance and redevelopment. Residents responded by forming the Pullman Civic Organization and began working to gain landmark status. The Historic Pullman Foundation, which formed in 1973, helps ensure the area's preservation and restoration by sponsoring various events such as neighborhood walking tours, annual house tours, Sunday brunch at the Florence Hotel, and presentations at the Pullman Visitor Center.

In many ways the housing development was ahead of its time. Each building, most of them townhouses, had gas and water, complete sanitary facilities and abundant quantities of sunlight and fresh air, which was a rarity at that time, when the working class was mostly housed in squalid tenements. Originally the town of Pullman housed about 12,000 people while today it still has a population of about 2,000, with an ethnically and economically mixed background.

Other famous buildings on the Pullman grounds include the Hotel Florence, named after Pullman's favourite daughter. It opened in 1881 as a hospitality showcase for visitors to George Pullman's perfect town and originally had 50 rooms, a dining room, a billiard room, a parlor and the only bar in Pullman. The Historic Pullman Foundation managed to save the hotel from demolition and today the hotel is closed to the public while it is undergoing a capital improvement program to restore it for use with the State Historic Site.

The Pullman Clock Tower and Administration Building was built in 1880 for the executive offices of the Pullman Palace Car Company, at the time one of the most beautiful industrial complexes in the United States. In 1998 the Clock Tower and Administration Building were seriously damaged by a fire set by an arsonist. Since then the building has been stabilized and the restored Clock Tower was put back on just a few days before our visit. Future use of the site is currently being debated by a task force institute by Chicago Mayor Daley and Illinois Governor Ryan.

Another interesting building located on the Pullman Historic District is the Queen Anne-style Market Hall which was built in 1881. The Market provided a venue for fresh fruits, meats and other goods. The original market was destroyed by fire in 1892 and a new market was built on the existing foundation. The market is surrounded by four colonnaded circular apartment buildings that were built with the new Market Hall in 1893. Unfortunately the Market Hall Building was destroyed by fire in 1973 and today it awaits restoration.

The Greenstone Church, located centrally in the Pullman Historic District, has an exterior facade of serpentine stone quarried in Pennsylvania. The sanctuary is unchanged with the exception of the chancel arrangements. All of the cherry wood is original. Today the church is still occupied by a Methodist congregation.

The visit to the Pullman Historic District was very interesting. It taught us about a different time of ultimate laissez-faire capitalism, industrial growth and immigration, labour unrest, urban planning, architecture and the ultimate failure of a rather unique social experiment.

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Hello from Chicago - A Personal Tour of the Chicago Cultural Center

Chicago, Arlington House, Sunday, October 23, 2005, 6:15 am

Hello from Chicago - A Personal Tour of the Chicago Cultural Center

Yesterday, after our lovely Austrian breakfast we went downtown to the Chicago Cultural Center, the main downtown information hub for tourists, to ask some questions about the Pullman Historic District, a planned industrial community, built in the 1880s by industrial magnate George Pullman, creator of the famous Pullman sleeper cars. We figured this would be an interesting place to visit since it brings together architecture, social and industrial history, and it would really give us insight into one of the most interesting personalities of Chicago's history.

To get more information about this neighbourhood we talked to one of the volunteer greeters who staff the Chicago Cultural Center and offer their local expertise to visitors free of charge. The Chicago Greeter program today offers 150 greeters speaking 20 languages and the Greeter program is one of the best ways of getting to know the city through the eyes of a local resident.

As a matter of fact, I had registered electronically for a Chicago Greeter Tour prior to my departure, but something had gone wrong with my registration and as a result I was not assigned a greeter. The good thing is that the City of Chicago also offers "InstaGreeters" - local volunteers / experts who take people on downtown walking tours without the necessity of a prior registration.

This is how we happened upon our very own personal InstaGreeter tour: Chicago Greeter and local expert Don talked to us a bit about the Pullman Historic District, but the more we talked, and the more he saw that we were really interested, he asked us whether we wanted a 20 minute tour of the Chicago Cultural Center. Considering that this is a Chicago landmark we readily agreed.

The Chicago Cultural Center was originally dedicated in 1897 as the city's original Public Library. It is an impressive limestone-faced building with intricate details, marble staircases, patterned ceilings, beautiful floor mosaics and two impressive stained glass domes. The cupola on the south side of the building is the world's largest Tiffany stained-glass dome.

Today the Cultural Center houses one of the city's Visitor Information Centers , various galleries, exhibition and meeting spaces, the Landmark Chicago Gallery which displays photographs from the permanent collection of Chicago landmarks, the 294-seat Claudia Cassidy Theater as well as the Studio Theater and various other facilities. You can even get married inside the Chicago Cultural Center.

Designed in the beaux-arts style by the Boston firm Shepley, Rutan and Coolidge, the Chicago Cultural Center was completed in 1897 and dedicated as the city's original Chicago Public Library. Completed at a cost of nearly $2 million, this remarkable monument was inspired by the neo-classical style of the World's Columbian Exposition held in Chicago in 1893.

To start off, Don told us that the name of the city of Chicago is an Indian word for "stinky onion swamp". He also explained that Chicago is a city of superlatives: 3 of the world's 10 highest buildings are located here. Chicago is also widely considered to be the birthplace of modern architecture and a living museum of architecture, showcasing some of the world's most famous architects including Frank Lloyd Wright, Daniel Burnham, Louis Sullivan, Mies van der Rohe and Frank Gehry.

Chicago likes to do everything big. The world’s largest public library is located here: the Harold Washington Library Center houses 2 million books. Chicago is also home to the largest building in the United States (excluding the Pentagon): the Merchandise Mart has 90 acres of floor space, housed in an Art Deco landmark. Buckingham Fountain in Grant Park is one of the world's largest fountains. Chicago also has the only river in the world that flows backwards. Engineers reversed the Chicago River in 1900 for sanitary purposes. Here's another interesting fact: Chicago also has the largest Polish population outside of Warsaw.

Our local expert Don took us through the building and showed us the two stained glass domes, the exhibit halls, the photo collection of Chicago landmarks, and to keep going along the line of superlatives, Don gave us a brief synopsis of Millennium Park, located right across Michigan Avenue from the Chicago Cultural Center. The idea for Millennium Park was conceived by famous mayor Richard M. Daley, and with the help of private sector donations Millennium Park has become one of the most impressive outdoor venues anywhere. The project cost $495 million, of which $220 million were financed privately.

Our Chicago Greeter Don, a former vice-president at Motorola, is very knowledgeable about the history of Chicago and very passionate about his city. His pride in his city is obvious, and there is a lot to be proud of. For me, Chicago's waterfront including Grant Park, the lakefront trail and its beaches are some of the most awesome features of this city. In total Chicago has more than 7300 acres of parkland, 552 parks, 33 beaches, nine museums, two world-class conservatories, 16 historic lagoons, 10 bird and wildlife gardens, and it's not surprising that Chicago has won numerous awards including "Best City in the World" and other accolades.

With Don's help we got a great overview of the Cultural Center and a bit of insight into Chicago's interesting history. It was the perfect preparation for our tour of the Pullman Historic District, an industrial community created by George Pullman, an industrial despot, yet a foresightful social entrepreneur who, according to Don, was universally despised.

Armed with a bit of background knowledge we were looking forward to our exploration of Pullman's social experiment.

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Hello from Chicago - Multiple Austrian Connections

Chicago, Screenz Internet Cafe, Saturday, October 21, 2005, 10:25 am

Hello from Chicago - Multiple Austrian Connections

So the two of us expatriate Austrians are staying at the Arlington House Hostel, in itself an exciting experience, to be immersed in this environment of young (and older) travellers from all over the world.

We got going early again this morning, at about 7 am. In the shower room Linda and I were talking and joking to each other in our Austrian dialect, all of a sudden a woman in her mid to late forties said, in German, "Am I hearing Austrian being spoken around here?"

It turns out that she is currently in Chicago with her 22 year old daughter who is working as a nanny in Boston. The two ladies got away for the weekend to Chicago. Linda and I said how astounding it was to run into someone from Austria during our trip to Chicago.

Well, it was time to get breakfast so we headed east to Clark Street, one of the main restaurant areas in Lincoln Park. We strolled northwards and bumped into a bakery / restaurant called "Austrian Bakery" which was open at this early hour. Of course we went inside and we saw a whole assortment of beautiful baked goodies, a variety of breads and rolls, and a glass display case full of cakes and pastries.

One thing that Austrian cuisine has is great pastry and great breads. As a matter of fact, Austria's loaves of rye bread, with their crispy crust, can hardly be found anywhere else, even in Toronto, where you can generally find foods from all over the world. You really have to go to a very specialized bakery that will make these types of loaves from scratch.

Well, this place had them, and talking to the owner we found out that he hails from the same province as Linda and me: "Steiermark" or "Styria" (in English), whose capital is Graz, Austria's second largest city. The young man who owned the bakery had completed his apprenticeship in Graz, and both Linda and I had gone to university in the same city. What a coincidence.....

We enjoyed a beautiful breakfast with different types of breads and sweets, and then we were approached by a young lady sitting at a table next to us who asked us in German if we were from Austria. Of course we confirmed and she indicated that she was from Salzburg and was currently studying medicine in Michigan.

So within about an hour and a half we had met 3 Austrians from 3 different Austrian provinces in Chicago. I sometimes go years in Toronto before I run into anybody from my home country, so this Austrian connection was definitely surprising.....

Well, it's a cool, grey and rainy day, but we decided we would defy the weather and made plans to head to another one of Chicago's interesting neighbourhoods: the Pullman Historic District.

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Hello from Chicago - What a fabulously photogenic city!

Chicago, Screenz Internet Cafe, Saturday, October 21, 2005, 9:15 am

Hello from Chicago - What a fabulously photogenic city!

Yesterday I woke up at 5:00 am Chicago time and I figured I might as well get ahead of the crowd at the Arlington House Youth Hostel and take an early shower. At 6 am I was already on the Internet, recording my first impressions of this exciting city and by 6:30 am I had left the hostel. It was still pretty dark outside and the sun was just slowly starting to come up.

I walked through the quiet Lincoln Park neighbourhood all the way to the Lake Michigan Shoreline where the cool wind was just howling off the lake. Joggers, bicyclists and power walkers were already out in full force. I strolled around for about 15 minutes, but when the wind got too strong I decided to take a bus and head south to a neighbourhood called "Old Town", near North Street and N. Wells Street. It's a tidy, well-kept neighbourhood of historic homes and the location of the Second City Comedy Club, a place that has spawned so many comedic talents.

After a brisk morning walk around Old Town I hopped back on the el-train and went to check out downtown. I got off in the Loop and headed out towards the openness of Michigan Avenue and Grant Park. Interestingly the wind in between the buildingsin the Loop was much stronger than in the open areas just off the Lake Michigan Shoreline.

Michigan Avenue and Grant Park are one of the areas where Chicago's beauty is most striking. Daniel Burnham's city plan of 1909 that preserved a huge amount of green space right on the shoreline of Lake Michigan was a brilliant decision, and visitors and local residents alike benefit from the huge green zone between the Loop and the lake. Grant Park's beginnings actually date all the way back to 1835, when foresighted citizens, fearing commercial lakefront development, lobbied to protect the open space. Burnham's vision of the park as a formal landscape with museums and civic buildings became reality: today Grant Park holds 3 of the city's most distinguished museums: The Field Museum of Natural History, the Shedd Aquarium and the Adler Planterium.

The Buckingham Fountain is the centerpiece of Grant Park, the city's grand "front yard," and it is set within a handsomely landscaped garden, one of the city's finest examples of a Beaux-Arts-style landscape design. It is an exact replica of the fountain in Versailles, just twice as large, and with those measurements it is one of the largest free-standing fountains in the world.

At the north end of Grant Park is Millenium Park, at an investment of $495 million Chicago's most ambitious public undertaking. Unsightly railroad tracks and parking lots were turned into a multi-media outdoor entertainment area during the last few years. Among Millennium Park's prominent features are the Frank Gehry-designed Jay Pritzker Pavilion, the most sophisticated outdoor concert venue of its kind in the United States; a winding mirror clad bridge over Stetson Street, designed by world-renowned architect Frank Gehry; and "Cloud Gate" ("The Bean"), a hugely popular sculpture inspired by liquid mercury, designed by British artist Anish Kapoor. On this beautiful sunny morning, the reflections of the city's skyscrapers had an almost surreal feel to them.

I still had about an hour and a half before my friend Linda would arrive at the Randolph Street Station, so I decided to head north on Michigan Avenue towards two of my favourite buildings: the Wrigley Building and the Chicago Tribune Tower. The Wrigley building serves as the headquarters of the Wrigley (chewing gum) company and was built in 1920 by the company's founder, William Wrigley Jr. It was the first of a series of landmarks at the southern end of the Magnificent Mile.

The design of the Tribune Tower was the result of an international competition for "the most beautiful office building in the world," held in 1922 by the Chicago Tribune newspaper. The various competition entries proved extremely influential for the development of skyscraper architecture in the 1920s. The winning entry, with a crowning tower with flying buttresses, is derived from the design of the French cathedral of Rouen and gives the building its striking silhouette.

The area around the Michigan Avenue Bridge and Esplanade looking westwards along the Chicago River is an absolute mecca for an architecture buff like me. You'll find a mixture of classic skyscrapers, many of them built in Art Deco Style, as well as more modern skyscrapers built over the last 30 years. This has to be one of the most impressive urban vistas in existence anywhere.

I continued to walk west on Wacker Drive and walked past a number of the north-south streets that connect the Loop with the areas north of downtown. I wanted to capture another fascinating building: Merchandise Mart, an impressive building at the north bank of the Chicago river between Wells and Orleans street, was built in 1931. At that time, when it was constructed by Marshall Field and Company to replace H.H. Ricardson's Marshall Field Wholesale store, it was the building with the largest floor area in the world and today it is the second largest building in the United States after the Pentagon.

A short hop on the el-train later I got off at Randolph Street to pick up my friend Linda who was scheduled to arrive at 10:25 am on the South Shore Railway Line. We have known each other since we are 10 years old (almost 30 years!) and grew up in Austria, and Linda herself moved to the United States a few years ago. We hadn't seen each other for 2 years and this was the time to reconnect.

Linda arrived a few minutes late and after a heart-felt greeting we headed off to the Chicago Cultural Center to try to pick up a 3-day transit pass. Much to our surprise we were told that the closest location for multi-day transit passes was the Marriot Hotel at 549 North Michigan Avenue, about 20 minutes walking north of where we were. We were a bit surprised that it would be so inconvenient for visitors arriving in the Loop to purchase transit passes, but off we went with Linda's suitcase in tow and we were finally able to pick up our coveted 3-day transit pass at the 2nd floor gift shop of the Marriot Hotel.

We decided to get rid of Linda's luggage and headed north towards the youth hostel on the bus. By that time it was about noon and we were both voraciously hungry. So we plunked ourselves down at a cozy spot called the "Pasta Bowl" on Clark Street and I had a really delicious gorgonzola pasta that I absolutely devoured.

From there we went back to the Arlington House, dropped off Linda's luggage and rested for a bit since we were both pretty tired after this hefty lunch. At 4 pm we got going again and headed down to the Golden Mile, Chicago's main shopping area along Michigan Avenue, north of the Chicago River. The place was absolutely hopping with people. We picked up a little gift for Linda's daughter at H&M and then headed up into the John Hancock Centre, Chicago's third highest building.

The view from the John Hancock Centre was amazing and the sun was just getting ready to set. Chicago's skyline is impressive, crowned as it is by the Sears Tower. After our high altitude excursion we strolled along Michigan Avenue and for dinner we headed back into the Lincoln Park area where we had a very filling Mexican vegetarian burrito dinner on Lincoln Avenue.

Exhausted from all this exploring and eating, we went back to the Arlington House to crash in our bunk bed...

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Hello from Chicago - First Impressions

Chicago, Arlington House Youth Hostel, Friday, October 21, 6:05 am

Hello from Chicago - First Impressions

So here I am again, on another short excursion away from home. I've been awake for an hour already and decided the best thing is to get up and put my first impressions on paper. Since there is only a one hour time difference between Toronto and Chicago I decided yesterday I wasn't even going to change my watch over. So when I came down this morning to use the free computer at the Arlington Youth Hostel in Chicago, I realized it's not 7 am, but actually only 6 am. Well, even better, that'll give me more chance to explore.

A trip to Chicago has been in the works for a while. I have been here twice before, once in 2001 with 3 of my friends, and once in April of 2003 to meet my friend Linda who I have known from back home in Austria since we are 10 years old. You realize you are getting old when you can say to someone that you have known them for 30 years...

So Linda, who now lives in Indiana, and I decided to reunite in Chicago again, so she is planning to come in today at 10:25 with the South Shore Railway Line. I, on the other hand, decided to fly this time, instead of driving or taking the train (15 hours from Toronto!!!) as I did the last two times.

As I've done several times this year already in my trips to New York City and Vancouver/Victoria, I decided to use my Airmiles to come down to Chicago on a free flight, and what a great decision that was since the flight is just over an hour long. With the help of Airmiles, this is shaping up to be a really reasonable and cost-effective weekend getaway in a great city that will allow me to keep my costs as low as possible.

Yesterday, I flew out of Pearson International Airport at 4:45 pm and arrived at 5:30 Chicago time. Chicago's O'Hare Airport is the world's busiest airport, and judging by the size of the terminals, I can only concur. After walking what felt like miles I reached the level where the subway trains depart, and I bought a 3-day visitor ticket for US$12.00. Chicago, similar to New York City, has a great transit system, with a large network of interconnected buses, subways and elevated trains. I am fascinated by the "el-train" system that runs through the downtown area and the "Loop" as it is called. The train on stilts has been in existence since the early 1900s, and it allows you to see some of the beautiful architecture that Chicago has to offer.

My destination was the Arlington House Youth Hostel, a place I had already stayed at during my earlier two trips. At US$56.00 per night for a private room for 2 people (albeit with a shared bathroom), you can't beat the pricing. The Arlington House is located in the beautiful neighbourhood of Lincoln Park and literally just 15 minutes from downtown by el-train or bus. It took me 45 minutes by train to get to the Washington Station downtown where I changed over to the red line which just took about 10 to 15 minutes to get me to Fullerton.

I am usually pretty proud of my 'highly developed sense of orientation', but when I left the Fullerton el-train station it was dark already and I promptly ended up walking westwards on Fullerton, in the opposite direction of where I was supposed to go. I managed to successfully delay my arrival at the youth hostel by about 45 minutes due to walking in the wrong direction and not being able to connect with anyone who might have known where the youth hostel is. None of the DePaul university students that I asked had any idea of where the intersection of Lincoln and Fullerton was, they were probably all new in town themselves. I finally arrived at the next larger intersection "Ashland" and realized I had walked about 2 or 3 km westwards, in the wrong direction.

Pretty tired from rolling my suitcase around I decided to catch the bus back east on Fullerton and arrived at the Arlington House not much later. The Arlington House with its large entrance hall full of young (and older) travellers and its absolutely spartanic rooms (no closets, no night tables, no table lamps, no chairs, no desks - just a metal bunk bed for our private room) is always an experience. But I love it, it makes me feel young again to hang out with all these world travellers and adventurers of different ages.

I had originally planned to head downtown, but due to my detour I was pretty pooped and decided to just go and eat something locally. I strolled south on Clark Street which has many lively little restaurants and plopped myself down in a place called Ranalli's where I had an extremely filling soup, salad and tiramisu dinner. After all this running around it was nice to sit down, read the paper, including the events calendar and try to figure out what adventures could be in store for this weekend.

Today I got up early, actually an hour earlier than I thought since I want to do some exploring before my friend Linda comes into town. I am planning to meet her at 10:25 at the Randolph Street train station, so I have a few hours for exploring before she comes into town.

I might take a bus north, or go south into the Old Town Neighbourhood, close to North Street.

It's going to be interesting.....

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Hello from Caledon, Elora & Guelph:Fall Colours, Ghosts and Ghouls

October 9, 2005

Hello from Caledon, Elora & Guelph:Fall Colours, Ghosts and Ghouls

Fall is one of the most beautiful seasons in Ontario, and after last weeks early fall colour tour through the Kawarthas east of Toronto, it was time yesterday to check out the areas west of Toronto. My husband and I set off on the highway, left the 401 at Mississauga Road and drove north into rolling agricultural farmland. Our first interesting village along the way was Glen Williams, a little hamlet outside of Georgetown, whose former sawmill now houses more than 30 artists and artisans. We headed north along the scenic Credit River and drove up onto the Niagara Escarpment and literally stumbled over the Cheltenham Brickworks, a now abandoned brickmaking factory dating back to 1930 that utilized the area's clay soil to manufacture bricks for Toronto's housing boom. Abandoned industrial buildings always hold a strange fascination for me, and they offer great opportunities for curious photographers.

Not far away is another very unique area, the Cheltenham Badlands, a unique geological formation of weathered terra cotta hued rock, that originated as a result of deforestation and overgrazing during the early 1900s. It's a fascinating landscape of undulating hills of red clay with greenish stripes, due to the soil's red and gray iron oxide content.

The 800-kilometre-long Bruce Trail that goes all the way from Niagara Falls to the tip of the Bruce Peninsula snakes through this region, and there are several entry points close by. The Niagara Escarpment is a truly unique habitat and home to 300 bird species, 53 mammals, 36 reptiles and amphibians, 90 fish and 100 varieties of special interest flora including 37 types of wild orchids. UNESCO named Ontario's Niagara Escarpment a World Biosphere Reserve in 1990. It's a popular spot among hikers and naturalists.

We headed east and down the Niagara Escarpment again and drove north in its shadow to the Forks of the Credit area and the quaint little village of Belfountain. This popular excursion destination was founded in the 1820 by Scottish and Irish immigrants, many of whom worked in local quarries, railroads, mills and tanneries. Today the village has souvenir shops, a beautiful country store, a spa, and an ice cream parlour.

From Belfountain we drove westwards through the town of Erin into Wellington County, an area of fertile farmland, punctuated by rivers, gorges, small lakes, and golf courses. Our next stop on this country drive was the little town of Fergus, a town known for its Scottish Heritage which Fergus celebrates every year, usually during the second week of August, with the Fergus Scottish Festival. During this three-day event, visitors from all over the world enjoy all aspects of traditional Highland Games with a wee bit of modern flare tossed in.

Fergus has a number of historic buildings in the downtown area, and a major draw in this little town is the Fergus Market, housed in the historic Beatty Brothers Farm Implement Manufacturing building which overlooks the Beatty Dam and dates back to the 1830s. The foundry was the first industrial location in Fergus and today houses a diverse collection of merchants, food retailers, and artisans.

Just outside Fergus is the Wellington County Museum and Archives. The museum stands majestically overlooking the once mill-laden Grand River. Built of locally quarried limestone in 1877 as the House of Industry and Refuge, this landmark structure then provided shelter for the "deserving poor", the aged and the homeless for almost a century. The museum now gives visitors an opportunity to experience the cultural legacy left by the intrepid settlers to this vast county of rolling hills, stony fields, deep gorges and quaint villages.

Another few kilometres down the road is the country town of Elora, one of Ontario's favourite weekend excursion destinations. Elora is situated in a beautiful nature area with glacial rock formations, and its most stunning geological feature is the Elora River which plunges over a number of rapids into the spectacular Elora Gorge. The mill sitting at the top of the gorge, aptly called the Elora Mill, has been turned into an upscale fine dining restaurant and country inn with 32 guest rooms.

The Elora Gorge features several kilometres of 80-foot cliffs, caverns, rapids and quiet pools. During the summer, hiking along the cliffs and inner-tubing through the gorge are favourite pastimes. Hiking trails start right at the Elora Mill. During the winter months visitors indulge in cross-country skiing and scenic nature walks through the area. The Grand River also provides excellent opportunities for fly-fishing, canoeing and kayaking.

The Elora-Cataract trail crosses 47 kilometres of scenic countryside. Between Fergus and Elora the trail passes by the Elora Quarry Conservation Area, an abandoned quarry that is a favourite spot for a refreshing dip. The quiet farmland around Elora is perfect for long country bike rides, and numerous golf courses round out the activities on offer.

During our visit yesterday, Elora was nicely dressed up for Halloween - a variety of ghouls, ghosts, spiders, monsters and witches adorned the buildings, balconies and lamp posts along the town's main streets.The town also offers a variety of shops, antique stories, galleries and diverse dining establishments. Horse-drawn coach rides throughout town are also a popular activity for tourists.

Not far from Elora you can visit Ontario's last remaining covered bridge in Montrose, and you'll have a chance to explore Old Order Mennonite Country. Summer brings a variety of festivals to this area, including the Elora Festival which is a one-month musical showcase of internationally acclaimed musicians and singers.

About 15 minutes south of Elora is the major city of this area: Guelph is a university and manufacturing city with a population of more than 100,000. Its diverse economy also includes high technology enterprises and today Guelph is one of the fastest growing economic regions in all of Canada. Similar to Fergus and Elora, Guelph was founded by Scottish settlers in the 1820s at the junction of the Eramosa and Speed Rivers. The University of Guelph Department of Scottish Studies links academic research to the community of those with Scottish ancestry.The city features many trails for hiking, biking, skiing and horseback riding and a variety of riverside dining establishments.

Guelph's most stunning architectural feature is the impressive Church of Our Lady Immaculate, a Gothic-Revival structure begun in 1877 and completed in 1888. The twin towers, more than 200 feet high, were not completed until 1926. The Church of Our Lady Immaculate is one of Ontario's largest and most impressive churches.

This time we didn't have a chance to explore Guelph in detail as it was getting late afternoon and we had to head back. But there will be another time for exploring this beautiful, historic city and other surrounding communities. But our little excursion out of the city was a perfect Saturday getaway for exploring the history and countryside just outside of Toronto.

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Hello from Toronto - A Culinary Tour of the St. Lawrence Market & An Exploration of HistoricSt. Lawrence Hall

October 6, 2005

Hello from Toronto - A Culinary Tour of the St. Lawrence Market & An Exploration of HistoricSt. Lawrence Hall

Life works in really strange and wonderful ways. At the beginning of this week I talked to my brother in Austria on the phone, and he said he'd been reading this German travel magazine and there was a big write-up about a Toronto-based tour guide who provides culinary tours of the St. Lawrence Market, one of my brother's favourite places that he discovered on his recent trip to Toronto.

I asked my brother what this fellow's name was and he looked it up and said "Bruce Bell". I did an internet search and within a few seconds I had located Bruce Bell Tours ; and I knew I had to meet this person. Bruce Bell, the popular history columnist for the St. Lawrence Neighbourhood Community Bulletin, is also an award winning playwright, actor, standup comedian and the honourary curator of the most photographed building in the city of Toronto, the historic Gooderham Building better known as the Flatiron. Bruce just recently published a book on Toronto called "Toronto - A Pictorial Celebration".

Immediately after I hung up with my brother I was on the phone with Bruce, we briefly introduced ourselves and he said, come down, join me on Thursday for my culinary tour of the St. Lawrence Market. Sure enough, this morning, punctually at 10 am I arrived at the souvenir shop at the main entrance of the market and I met Bruce and the other participant in our tour, a young architecture student.

As the official historian of the St. Lawrence Market Bruce has special access to all sorts of areas of the building that other people never get to see. Right away he took us up some stairs, pulled out a special key and led us into the former mayor's office, since the market building used to be the original city hall of Toronto. The building has undergone several transitions, and the two side wings were removed to make way for a steel-girdered shed built in 1904 that was modeled after the Victoria Train Station in London.

From the former mayor's office we had a perfect view of the market and we also had a beautiful vista of the downtown skyscrapers and the famous Flatiron Building to the west, and St. Lawrence Hall to the north. Bruce took us down the stairs in the market hall itself and shared various tidbits of history with us. The shoreline of Lake Ontario used to be right at Front Street, and after landfill was added, the Esplanade became the waterfront, and today several hundred meters of additional landfill have expanded the city's territory to a new waterfront.

Under Bruce's guidance we started our tour of the shops which include bakeries, butcher shops, fish mongers, fruit stands, delis, dessert places and specialty vendors of all kinds. The first place he took us to was a bakery that also serves lunches, and we got a delicious taste treat of smoked salmon and backbacon, each on a small piece of bread. I am not usually a big fish eater, but this savoury morcel was delicious. At another store we got to sample "Indian candy" - smoked salmon cured in maple syrop. What a treat!

We walked by some of the butcher shops, many of which have been in the same family for generations. I admired the creatively presented cuts of pork loin stuffed with spinach, cheese and bacon, a perfect solution for a non-chef like me - just stick it in the oven and pull out a delicious gourmet meal.

After a brief tour outside the building where Bruce explained the building's history and early Toronto society to us, we went into the lower level, where all the dessert shops, fruit stalls and specialty vendors are located. We got several more samples: a huge variety of delicious honeys from New Zealand, a sampling of speciality jellies and jams, tender white chocolate truffles that just melt in your mouth, and for dessert - after all these sweat treats - Nutella-filled crepes. All the samples we received were utterly delicious.

Bruce took us into the bowels of the building, today mostly used for storage and refrigeration, but in previous times these areas were the men's and women's jails. Bruce explained that in the 1850s women had no rights and many men simply stuck their wives in prison, especially after child-birth or during menopause, when they got a little cranky. The iron hooks that prisoners were chained to are still visible on the walls.

The basement is also decorated with a number of murals that explain Toronto's history. As the official historian of the St. Lawrence Market and a well-known columnist of the St. Lawrence Community Bulletin, Bruce is actually depicted on the mural. About 15 historic plaques throughout a variety of buildings in the downtown area provide insight into noteworthy past events and are titled "A Bruce Bell History Project". So there is no doubt that this is a real expert, even a local celebrity.

Just outside the St. Lawrence Market used to be the terminus of the Underground Railroad, the pier where thousands of the former American slaves arrived after having made their secret passage from the American south to Rochester and on to freedom in Toronto. It's amazing how much history there is, even in a comparably young city such as Toronto, and I thoroughly enjoyed listening to Bruce's unique stories.

From the St. Lawrence Market building we walked north through a courtyard to another former City Hall of Toronto by the name of St. Lawrence Hall. It was the former city hall of the City of York, that was officially renamed the city of Toronto (an Indian word for "meeting place") in 1856. St. Lawrence Hall is a beautiful classical building, and Bruce took us inside to show us the ballroom, the most well-preserved original ballroom in Canada. The chandelier is original, was originally lit with coal gas and today is illuminated with natural gas.

This was the heart of Toronto's elite WASP (white / Anglo-Saxon / Protestant) society during the 1800s and Bruce shed more light on the many behavioural norms of the time. Women were not considered persons and could not walk on the street by themselves or accompanied by any man other than their husband. Men had to defend their wives' honour in duels and sometimes ended up having to shoot their best friend as a result of a harmless (by today's standards) misunderstanding. The city and country were run by English noblemen, and Catholic immigrants from Ireland, arriving in masses after the potato famine of 1849, were despised by the local ruling class.

As a result, the Catholics were segregated, but they did receive a spot inside St. Lawrence Hall, a big room called St. Patrick's Hall, where they were allowed to congregate since they were barred from entering the ballroom which was reserved for the WASP elite. Irish Catholics had to enter St. Patrick's Hall through a back staircase since they weren't allowed to mix with the English aristocracy. The portion on the northeast side of St. Lawrence Hall housing St. Patrick's Hall incidentally collapsed in 1967 and was completely rebuilt.

After St. Lawrence Hall we walked through a beautiful Victorian Garden outside of St. James Cathedral, Toronto's largest house of worship, and the 5th church in the present location. Bruce took us inside and shared more historical information with us, about the original British settlers of Toronto and ruling elite of the times, which included the famous Bishop Strachan, the creator of St. James Cathedral. Bruce showed us the various stained glass windows that adorn the church, all of which were crafted at different times. Especially stunning are the Tiffany stained glass windows on the east side which have a particularly intense coloration.

St. James Cathedral marked the end of our culinary and historic tour of the St. Lawrence Market area. We had received a great introduction to Toronto's history and enjoyed the diverse culinary delicacies of Toronto's greatest market. Bruce's entertaining and informative lessons on a time in Toronto's history when women and men were segregated, when society was strictly regimented by expectations of etiquette and social status, and when Irish and English weren't allowed to mix made me realize how incredibly far Toronto has come in the last 150 years.

Bruce Bell offers other interesting tours about Toronto's Distillery District, its Art Deco skyscrapers and a tour called "Comfort and Steam" that takes you through the Fairmount Royal York Hotel, Union Station, the Skydome and the Air Canada Centre, among other places. Considering everything that I learned in the St. Lawrence Market tour, I hope to have a chance to catch another one of Bruce's tours and broaden my local knowledge of this city in the near future.

www.textronics.com

For more travel articles, advice, photos, interesting interviews &

the opportunity to win a cruise on the Amazon River

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Romantic Kennebunkport, Maine, by Norman P. Goldman

October 5, 2005

Romantic Kennebunkport, Maine
By: Norman P. Goldman

Norm and Lily Goldman are a husband and wife team who meld words with art focusing on romantic destinations.

Norm is the Editor of the team’s travel site, Sketchandtravel.com, where you will find Norm’s travel articles and Lily’s art work. Norm is also the Editor of the book reviewing and author interviewing site, Bookpleasures.com. The latter comprises over twenty five international book reviewers who come from all walks of life and who review all genres.

Kennebunkport- what an unusual name for a town!

According to the town's historical society the name is of Native American origin. It translates from kini-banek "long cut bank," and refers to the "Great Hill" or a grassy high cliff projecting into a large body of water.

Located on the southern coast of Maine, about twenty five miles below Portland, it is 88 miles from Boston, 298 miles from New York and 188 miles from Hartford.

History tells us that at least five centuries before the first Europeans arrived here, and perhaps even thousands of years earlier, Native Americans inhabited Kennebunkport.

In 1630, it was called Cape Porpus (Porpoise), and in 1719, it was changed to Arundel.

Finally, in 1820, when the town was a very busy port playing a pivotal role in the maritime industry second only to Portland, it became known as Kennebunkport.

Prosperous sea captains, merchants and shipbuilders vastly contributed to the town's fortunes, and were instrumental in building some of the prettiest homes and churches in the region.

They also were influential in creating one of the wealthiest villages in the state.

Seizing the many opportunities, the Europeans believed that the new world was only an extension of their old homeland. Consequently, the homes they built, the communities that evolved and the names they gave to the various villages and towns only reflected their own cultural heritage.

Today, you can still view some of these Colonial residences if you meander along the tree- lined streets that surround Dock Squarein the center of its historic district.

When the shipbuilding era ended in the 19th century, the age of the summer visitor followed. During the latter part of the 1800s the idyllic and romantic image of Maine with its rugged and scenic beauty played an immense role in attracting Kennebunkport's earliest summer visitors.

The Boston and Maine Railroad transported several thousand-summer visitors to Kennebunk, where a station had been established. In 1900 the Atlantic Shore Line trolley system was constructed carrying visitors to their various destinations and making access easy.

Interesting to note is that Maine's publicity slogan, "Vacationland," can be traced to the publicists of the Maine Central Railroad in the late 1890s.

These summer visitors, as do the visitors of today, enjoyed the various beaches located in and around Kennebunkport, such as Gooch's Beach, Goose Rocks Beach, Mother's Beach and Middle Beach.

It was fishing that attracted the earliest settlers, and this attraction has continued today, as the excellent fishing spots located in and around Kennebunkport lure many a traveler. Only minutes away is Cape Porpoise, where you can watch lobster fishermen unloading their catch for the day and even purchase all the fresh lobster you can eat right out of the traps.

ATTRACTIONS

One of the most popular attractions of this seafaring town is a drive along Ocean Avenue, where you can participate with many others in Bush-watching. The 11-acre estate of former President George Bush and his wife, Barbara, is located on Walker's Point overlooking the ocean.

How about experiencing an old fashion trolley ride? Check out the the Seashore Trolley Museum, where you will be able to catch one of these rides.

Take a scenic cruise down the Kennebunk River for a romantic jaunt.

There are also the many art galleries to explore, guided kayak tours, whale watching and nature charters, the Kennebunkport Brewery, and summer theatre in and around Kennebunkport.

In Kennebunk just minutes away from Kennebunkport you will find the most photographed home in Maine, the Wedding Cake House.

ROMANTIC DINING

Once you have explored this charming little town, you may want to experience a dining establishment that according to its owner, Denise Rubin, "is not only a feast for the palate, but also a feast for the eyes." And that it is.

On The Marsh, located in a restored farmhouse and barn on three acres of tidal marsh, has been named for the past two years by People's Choice as the most romantic restaurant. It has also been honored with the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence for superb cuisine, wine cellar and ambiance in 2003'.If you have a glance at its European country classic cuisineyou can well understand the magic quality that makes discriminating diners zero in on this restaurant.

As soon as you step into the front door you are amazed at how a dilapidated building, previously known as the Salt Marsh Tavern, had been transformed into a first class dining establishment by its owner Denise Rubin. In one word it can only be described as "magnifique."

Rubin, with a keen eye and a very vivid imagination, realized the potential of having a restaurant overlooking marshes, where tiny white lights adorning the property's cedar and pine trees, would be nothing less than stunning.

What caught Lily's artistic eye was Rubin's knack of incorporating a Harlequin touch in the restaurant's décor, such as the black and white diamond table clothes, and some of the collection of art, antiques, furnishings and collectables. Apparently all of these items are ever changing, and all are available for purchase.

Add an elegant and exciting menu together with an outstanding wine cellar, and you have an unbelievable romantic ambience. For that special romantic rendezvous you can even request to be seated at a table hidden away in an alcove, where many a wedding proposal has transpired.

On the other hand, if you are curious about what goes on behind the scenes, the restaurant's staff will set you up in the kitchen, where you can experience how one of the finest chefs and his staff carry out their culinary skills.

There is also the owner's table where the chef will prepare a special menu for you including the opportunity to savor various wines from their extensive collection.

What makes On The Marsh one of the most outstanding restaurants in the State of Maine is its creative dishes and perfect presentation.

This was quite evident when we had the opportunity to sample some of the Sushi Entrees followed by the house salad of assorted greens and crisp romaine marinated red onions, and grape tomatoes. The principal entrée consisted of the potato and basil crusted Atlantic Salmon Filet, horseradish-thyme beurre blanc, crushed Yukon Gold potatoes.

The pièce de resistance was the trio of crème brulée and the lemon cheesecake.

There is no doubt that anyone who has had the opportunity to experience this fine restaurant will return time and time again.

www.textronics.com

For more travel articles, advice, photos, interesting interviews &
the opportunity to win a cruise on the Amazon River
visit my website at www.travelandtransitions.com

Banff, Alberta - More Than A Cute Tourist Town A Stay In Not Just An Ordinary B&B In Banff, Alberta-Article by: Norm Goldman-Paintings by: Lily Azerad

October 5, 2005

Banff, Alberta - More Than A Cute Tourist Town A Stay In Not Just An Ordinary B&B In Banff, Alberta
-Article by: Norm Goldman
-Paintings by: Lily Azerad-Goldman

Norm and Lily Goldman are a husband and wife team who meld words with art focusing on romantic destinations.

Norm is the Editor of the team’s travel site, Sketchandtravel.com, where you will find Norm’s travel articles and Lily’s art work. Norm is also the Editor of the book reviewing and author interviewing site, Bookpleasures.com. The latter comprises over twenty five international book reviewers who come from all walks of life and who review all genres.

TOWN OF BANFF

As Canadians, my wife and I are somewhat embarrassed to admit that although we have traveled around the world for the past thirty- five years, we never once visited Banff, Alberta. Perhaps, we believe in the old mistaken belief - "the grass is greener on the other side of the fence."

This year after some reflection coupled with our crying over the Canadian dollar taking a beating in the USA, we decided that it would not be a bad idea to check out Banff and surroundings.

There are no photos, movies or videos that could do justice or could have adequately prepared us for the mind- blowing and overwhelming peaks of the Canadian Rockies. At times they even felt somewhat intimidating, and in fact my wife confessed to me that she felt a little claustrophobic walking around the Town of Banff looking up at these towering mountain summits.

When we mentioned to a visitor from France that a short drive from our hometown of Montreal there are the Laurentian Mountains, she laughed at us saying these are hills compared to the Rockies. We didn't feel insulted-she was right on!

In 1883 the Town of Banff was created as a result of the trans-continental railway having been built through the Bow River Valley.

The town is perched along the Bow River within the Banff National Park that has been classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. From almost everywhere you can view the Cascade, Tunnel, Sulphur, and Rundle Mountains.

It was only in 1990 did it officially become an incorporated town, however, with one very important difference from other Alberta towns- Parks Canada controls environmental protection within the town. You can well imagine the" red tape" a homeowner has to endure before any kind of renovation or modification is approved.

We were also informed that a cap has been placed on any future development of the town.

Thea's House, More Than Just A B&B

There are over 4.8 million visitors converging into the Banff area every year. Imagine trying to make a reservation in an inn, B&B or hotel during the peak seasons!

Consider yourself fortunate if you succeed in securing a room in one of the most extra-ordinary romantic B&Bs in the area called Thea's House, located five minutes from Main Street Banff. According to owners, Jami and Greg Christou, it is not unusual that reservations for their four guest- rooms can fill up six months in advance.

You are probably wondering what the name "Thea" stands for and what is so special about this B&B?

Jami informed us that the name "Thea" means aunt in Greek. Apparently, the B&B was named after Greg's grand- aunt, Georgia, who originally owned the house. Her last wish was to have the house kept within the Christou family.

Aunt Georgia was a very gregarious person, and although she never operated a B&B, her home was always open to anyone who wished to drop in and savor her great cooking and warm hospitality.

The present B&B owners wishing to carry on Aunt Georgia's traditions provide their guests with the finest in hospitality and amenities. It is little wonder that it has become a favorite among honeymoon couples.

Jami's attention to detail and her boundless energy is evident everywhere. Because this B&B only has four guest rooms, it is easy to offer individualized service. When Jami says Thea's House differs from other B&B's in Banff trust me, she is not exaggerating!

We stayed in the Rundle Room, or the honeymoon suite, with its petit balcony that had a fantastic view of the mountains. This room, as well as the other three, is completely separate from the owner's living quarters, thus providing the utmost in privacy. All rooms are spacious, uncluttered and filled with those extra sought after romantic touches - the finest linens, best down duvets and down pillows, fluffy towels and bathrobes, gas fireplaces, tv, vcr, telephones, kingside beds in three of the rooms while the fourth has two double beds, entertainment units, fresh flowers, and chocolates placed on the pillows.

Luxurious, also, was our suite with its large Jacuzzi tub for two and steam shower, where I had the ultimate pleasure to steam myself and then loll back and let the magic of the locally made bath salts work on my tired bones, especially after our grueling day of hiking.

To be noted is that the three other rooms have standard size jetted bathtubs with showers.

Breakfast you can bet will be something out of the ordinary. Jami believes that before hiking or skiing you need sufficient fuel. You are sure to be served fruit salads, breads, cereals, jams, homemade yogurts, tea, coffee, and one of the daily hot breakfasts, which varies from day to day. Jami is also very attentive to her guest's dietary needs as evidenced by her purchase of special pancake mix and bread for my wife, who is lactose intolerant.

If you are looking to fall in love or just the spark for romance, this is the place to stay, and we have to concur with the couple who wrote in our room's guest book, "we came here to relax and fall in love. Thank you for making it easy. This place is the most beautiful we have ever seen."

Activities In And Around Banff

If just hanging around Thea's House or walking up and down Banff Avenue checking out the souvenir shops is not your cup of tea, you don't need to go very far to find something exciting to do.

Just a short drive away is Banff Upper Hot Springs. It is the only hot springs in the Banff area open to public bathing. The water may be hot but as we discovered it was heaven, particularly if you suffer from arthritis.

How about taking a boat ride or fishing on Lake Minnewanka in the heart of the Canadian Rockies in Banff National Park.

You can also sign up for the tours offered by Discover Banff Tours. We enjoyed the evening wildlife safari adventure that lasted about 2 ½ hours during the early evening hours and where we had the opportunity to observe animals in their natural environment.

As for cultural activities, you have to check out the famous Banff Center For The Performing Arts, where you are sure to find something going on in the way of a theatre or musical performance.

www.textronics.com

For more travel articles, advice, photos, interesting interviews &
the opportunity to win a cruise on the Amazon River
visit my website at www.travelandtransitions.com

MONTREAL'S UNIQUE UNDERGROUND CITY By: Norman P. Goldman

October 5, 2005

MONTREAL'S UNIQUE UNDERGROUND CITY

By: Norman P. Goldman

Norm and Lily Goldman are a husband and wife team who meld words with art focusing on romantic destinations.

Norm is the Editor of the team’s travel site, Sketchandtravel.com, where you will find Norm’s travel articles and Lily’s art work. Norm is also the Editor of the book reviewing and author interviewing site, Bookpleasures.com. The latter comprises over twenty five international book reviewers who come from all walks of life and who review all genres.

One of the most fascinating attractions of Montréal is its unique underground city extending over an area of approximately 30 kilometres. In fact, this underground city is the largest in the world.

Did you know that in Montréal it is possible to live, work, eat, entertain yourself and others, exercise and probably do any other activity you can think of entirely underground?

The origin of this underground city dates back to 1962 with the construction of the Place Ville Marie shopping plaza. The next phase was in 1966 with the completion of Montréals Métro. During the course of the next thirty years a series of tunnels and walkways were constructed in order to make this one of the truly unique attractions in the world. It is one humongous shopping mall and retail complex.

Five distinct sections comprise the underground city. These five sections can be viewed at the following site

You will notice that the first of these sections is to be found in the east end of the city around Berri-UQAM station. It is here where you will find the Université du Québec at Montréal as well as the central bus station.

The second section is located between Place-des-Armes and Place-des-Arts and this is linked to Complexe Desjardins, Musée dArts Contemporain, Complexe Desjardins, Complexe Guy Favreau and the newest building, Palais des Congrès. This could be termed the heart of cultural Montréal.

The third section and one that mainly serves the business community is located at Square Victoria. The fourth section is in all likelihood the busiest and comprises McGill, Peel and Bonaventure Métro stations. It is here where you will find a great deal of shopping such as La Baie, Les Promenades de la Cathédrale, Place Montréal Trust, Les Ailes de la Mode, Cours Mont-Royal, Place Bonaventure, the train station and Place Ville-Marie.

Around the Atwater Métro station you will find the fourth and fifth sections that are linked to Westmount Square, Collège Dawson and Place Alexis Nihon.

There are approximately 35 office towers, 8 major hotels, and 2,600 retail outlets, as well as several apartment complexes that are interconnected within this underground complex.

It would probably take you a few days in order to explore all of the shops, hotels, buildings, cultural venues, etc; however, if you have the time it is well worth exploring this subterranean world that apparently was based on an idea by Leonardo da Vinci.

In fact, if you are vacationing in Montréal during the cold winter months or even the hot humid summer months, you will enjoy meandering around this fascinating attraction.

http://www.textronics.com/

For more travel articles, advice, photos, interesting interviews &
the opportunity to win a cruise on the Amazon River
visit my website at http://www.travelandtransitions.com/

Newport, Rhode Island - A Romantic Voyage Back in Time

October 5, 2005

Newport, Rhode Island - A Romantic Voyage Back in Time
-Article by: Norm Goldman-Paintings by: Lily Azerad-Goldman

Norm and Lily Goldman are a husband and wife team who meld words with art focusing on romantic destinations.

Norm is the Editor of the team’s travel site, Sketchandtravel.com, where you will find Norm’s travel articles and Lily’s art work. Norm is also the Editor of the book reviewing and author interviewing site, Bookpleasures.com. The latter comprises over twenty five international book reviewers who come from all walks of life and who review all genres.

NEWPORT'S CLAIM TO FAME

Newport Rhode Island is a town of Colonial charm, Victorian architecture, Gilded Age mansions, inns, jazz festivals, tennis, a picturesque harbor, marvelous restaurants, narrow old streets, and "la bonne vie"- the good life.

However, not widely known, is that it is blessed with an unusual past, as evidenced by the many firsts this town can boast.

The White House Tavern located on Marlborough Street, is the oldest tavern building in continuous use in the USA. On Touro Street you will find the first synagogue in the USA, the Touro Synagogue, built in 1759.

Did you know that the first gas-illuminated streetlights (1803), and the first photograph taken by an electric light all took place in Newport? The oldest newspaper in continuous operation in the USA, The Newport Mercury, started its publishing days here in 1758 by the Franklyn Family. A leisurely stroll along the elegant Bellevue Avenue will lead you to the oldest lending library in the USA, Redwood Library, built around 1745. The Quakers can claim that its first settlement in North America was Newport. In 1895 Newport had been host to the first open golf tournament. And the list goes on and on, far too numerous to mention them all.

It is also where Jacqueline Bouvier grew up and married Jack Kennedy on the 12th of September 1953 at St Mary's Church, the oldest Roman Catholic Parish in Rhode Island, located at 70 Church Street.

BRIEF HISTORY

English settlers first began arriving in Rhode Island in 1636, when an English clergyman, Roger Williams, and his small army of followers were practically drummed out of Massachusetts for their liberal religious views challenging the foundations of Puritanism.

Providence was the first settlement to be established in 1636, to be followed by Newport, in 1639.

Among Williams' followers were Ann Hutchinson along with her spouse William, and William Coddington. Eventually these three found their way to the southern tip of Aquidneck Island, and Coddington purchased from Native Americans, called the Narrangansetts, a tract of land, later to be renamed Newport.

What is momentous about these early settlers is that there was a concerted effort to cast off the restraints imposed by the political intervention in religious life, and to separate the church from the state. For this reason, Newport has often been described as the birthplace of democracy, and it provided a refuge for Jews and Quakers who were constantly escaping religious intolerance.

ROMANTIC NEWPORT

A visit to Newport is a romantic voyage back in time. It seems that everything in this historic town are reminders of its past.

To appreciate historic Newport a good starting point is to hop on the narrated Scenic Overview Tour, offered by Viking Tours of Newport that will take you along the 9.5 mile Ocean Drive overlooking the rugged Atlantic Ocean. The tour will remind you of Newport's seafaring past, as it was one of the leading ports in colonial America, along with Boston, New York, Philadelphia and Charleston.

Bustling with activity in the 1700s, the waterfront was the scene of 150 separate wharves and hundreds of shops. Today, these old wharfs, Bannister's Wharf and Bowen's Wharf, have undergone a most impressive restoration housing charming restaurants and shops.
The tour will also point out some of the grandiose mansions lining Bellevue Avenue, where the Vanderbilts, Astors, and their friends spent their summers having a grand time partying. Mansions they referred to as their "cottages."

Or, if you prefer, why not jump aboard the Spirit of Newport where you will enjoy a one- hour narrated cruise of the harbor. The sightseeing boat departs behind the Newport Harbor Hotel and Marina.

A visit to Newport would not be complete without taking a leisurely stroll along Bellevue Avenue. It is here where you will be able to enter some of Newport's castle-like mansions that have been preserved by the Preservation Society of Newport County, and are open to the public.

Incidentally, the Rosecliff Mansion has recently been the setting for such films as The Great Gatsby and True Lies.

If you are brave and energetic, try the scenic Cliff Walk, a 3½ -mile public park that winds its way between the backs of the Bellevue Avenue mansions and the ocean. In 1975 it was designated as a National Recreation Trail. It is one of the best ways to see the city.

ACCOMODATIONS

To capture Newport's colonial charm, discriminating travelers will insist on well-appointed amenities, and no less than perfection when it comes to service. Without doubt, the legendary Hotel Viking, ideally located within the fashionable neighborhood of Bellevue Avenue's graceful mansions satisfies these requirements.

Stepping into this charming hotel is a step back in time circa 1920s. Originally built in 1926 at a cost of $500, 000.00, the hotel's primary's objective was to accommodate out-of-town guests of the famous Newport "400." (This prestigious list comprised 213 families and individuals, whose lineage could be traced back at least three generations.)

It is the only hotel in Newport to be listed in the prestigious National Register of Historic Places, and it is also a member of the Historic Hotels of America, as well as the Noble House Hotels and Resorts collection.

Over the years the hotel has been host to President and Mrs. John F. Kennedy, the Astors and the Vanderbilts, many international dignitaries, Tennis Hall of Fame players and Newport Film and Jazz Festivals attendees.

Guests who appreciate Queen Anne and Chippendale-style furnishings will relish settling in one of the 237 newly renovated guest rooms offering an authentic romantic Newport experience. Among the amenities offered are a health club and sauna, state-of-the-art workout facilities, indoor pool (presently undergoing renovation), and two restaurants.

Newport lends itself to walking, and many visitors find this mode of transportation to be the most convenient way to explore the city's highlights. The Viking's adjacent parking lot makes it easy to forget about fighting traffic or parking spots. Once you check into the hotel and park your car, you are free to go on you way without any sweat.

Just about all of Newport's attractions, restaurants, antique stores, and boutiques are within an easy stroll from the hotel's front door. You will find many of them on Thames Street and Spring Street in the heart of Newport.

ROMANTIC DINING

Newport, no doubt, is endowed with great history and culture; however, it also overflows with many fine-dining establishments.

Le Bistro, a Yankee Magazine Travel Guide "Editor's Pick Award" located on Bowen's Wharf , specializing in French country cuisine for the past twenty nine years is a favorite choice of visitors and locals alike.

This charming and intimate restaurant has a wonderful view of Newport's harbor, making it somewhat difficult to concentrate on the menu. After soaking in the beautiful scenery, turn your attention to the innovative menu. It will not disappoint you.

Recent diner selections included baked stuffed lobster, broiled local scrod, seafood linguini, roasted duck, steamed native lobster, New York Sirloin Steak, fresh sea scallops, grilled salmon, rack of lamb, shrimp sauté, chicken sauté. One caveat, the portions are humongous! We hardly had enough room to savor the finale, the delectable deserts, such as the apple tart and the amaretto cheesecake.

The casual atmosphere of the restaurant with its simple décor makes you feel at ease, creating an ideal setting for a pleasant romantic rendezvous. In fact, the couple seated beside us was celebrating their tenth anniversary, and from what I gathered from our extremely helpful and courteous waiter, many an anniversary had been celebrated here.

Try arriving early in order to be seated near the window.

To learn more about Newport: KEY ATTRACTIONS

The Hotel Viking
One Bellevue Avenue
Newport, RI
Tel: 800-556-7126401-847-3300
Fax: 401-849-0749
Email: reservations@hotelviking.com

Le Bistro
Bowen's Wharf
Tel: 401-849-7778

Newport County Convention & Visitor's Bureau
23 American's Cup Avenue
Newport, RI
Tel: 800-976-5122401-849-8048
Fax: 401-849-0291
Email: jbailey@GoNewport.com

Smugglers' Notch: Away from the Pollution Vermont, USA--By Norman Goldman--Art Work by Lily Azerad-Goldman

October 5, 2005

Smugglers' Notch: Away from the Pollution Vermont, USA--By Norman Goldman--Art Work by Lily Azerad-Goldman

Norm and Lily Goldman are a husband and wife team who meld words with art focusing on romantic destinations.

Norm is the Editor of the team’s travel site, Sketchandtravel.com, where you will find Norm’s travel articles and Lily’s art work. Norm is also the Editor of the book reviewing and author interviewing site, Bookpleasures.com. The latter comprises over twenty five international book reviewers who come from all walks of life and who review all genres.

No smog, no pollution and an abundance of fun, isn't that what you want when you plan a vacation? Look no further than the majestic corner of Vermont known as Smugglers' Notch Area or, as the locals like to call it, "Smuggs."

Just driving along The Smugglers' Notch Scenic Highway (SR 108) and observing the misty light filtering through the trees is sufficient to beckon you to park your car and meander about. For nature lovers and artists this truly is a treasure. If there were such a place as heaven on earth, Smugglers would qualify.

A word of caution, however, don't let go of the steering wheel as you wind your way around the large boulders that protrude onto the narrow passageway. It can be hair-raising! Oh yes, I forgot to tell you, watch out for the ghosts of the past.

Legend tells us that the Notch derived its name as far back as the early 1800's, when President Thomas Jefferson prohibited trade with Britain. Vermonters were up in arms when they were told that trading with the British would no longer be tolerated. Their livelihood depended on importing silks and drugs from Montreal. What were they to do? Of course, smuggle and hide the contraband within the caves of the Notch. Apparently, many years later, during the era of prohibition, the Notch was used as a storage place for smuggled liquor.

As you drive through the Notch you will notice some parking spaces. Park your car and explore the flora and fauna. You won't be sorry. Who knows, maybe you will find some of the hidden booty? Just bear in mind that during the winter, part of the highway is closed.

If you were planning to vacation a few days in the area, a good suggestion would be to stay at the Smugglers' Notch Resort. This certainly can be your home base and jumping off point and will also provide endless hours of activities.

This resort is located in an area known as "the quiet side of the Mountain," and has been in existence since 1956. It has been classified, and rightfully so, as one of the best family resorts in North America. Moreover, the resort is a leader in practising superior environmental stewardship and responsible business ethics.

The "mommy, I'm bored" syndrome is not part of its vocabulary. In fact, the resort is supposedly the only one in North America to guarantee family fun. Their policy is that if any member of a family participates in one or more of their programs and doesn't have fun; they will refund the entire program portion of that family's member stay.

It is difficult not to have fun. You can hike, bike, fish, golf, canoe, swim, kayak, ski, snowboard, tennis, waterslide, volleyball, dance, and participate in endless activities within a three thousand acre playground. You name the sport or activity, and for the most part, they can accommodate you and all members of your family. During the summer you will discover eight pools and three waterslides with splash pools. The winter season is the time to ski or perhaps learn to ski on one of the three interconnected mountains. If you prefer, you can try snowboarding within one of the resort's designated facilities.

On a more serious note, we all know how a multitude of recreational activities can sometimes play havoc with our environment. Realizing this danger, Smugglers' Notch Resort has made a concerted effort to become a responsible corporate citizen in matters related to its surroundings. As a result, the management is continuously collaborating and consulting with researchers, scientists, and staff from Vermont's Agency of National Resources. They have even hired a full time environmental manager. Something you would rarely find at many other resorts.

In 1998, Smugglers Notch Resort received the Governor's Award for Environmental Excellence for various innovations, such as the use of the most efficient compressors for snowmaking, recycling of construction scrap material, adhering to Vermont's Five Star specifications when related to building, and using live bullhead catfish as part of the sewage treatment process. The latter is certainly innovative!

The resort is also very keen on demonstrating to visitors and guests the extent it practices good environmental behaviour. This is evidenced by the many children and adults' environmental sensitivity activities it organizes in and around the resort's complex. Their main objective, according to the management, is "to raise the environmental awareness of guests and employees, and to broaden their knowledge of environmental efforts through their educational programs."

In addition, by respecting nature, the resort is able to provide artists with a pollution free environment. No doubt, the surrounding mysterious forests and towering mountains provide an endless source of inspiration. However, if the fauna and flora were to be destroyed, this stimulus would be non-existent. Programs, such as the "Artists in the Mountains," offered by the resort, would find it difficult to attract participants. After all, who would want to draw, paint, watercolor, or participate in anything, if you are surrounded with pollution? All of the fun of the vacation would be lost.

Welcome to a State and a vacation resort that cares!

http://www.textronics.com/

For more travel articles, advice, photos, interesting interviews &
the opportunity to win a cruise on the Amazon River
visit my website at http://www.travelandtransitions.com/